Nerite Snails: The Definitive Care Guide

Nerite snails are one of the best options when trying to keep your tank clean, whether it’s freshwater or saltwater. They spend most of their time moving around the tank, consuming any algae in their path.

Snails are ideal for beginner, as they are likely to make a few mistakes. They are very easy to care for and have few demands once you’ve added them to your tank.

They are also easy to breed so your snail population can quickly multiply.

At less than an inch long they won’t worry anyone who’s space conscious and they can be kept in smaller tanks.

In this guide we will tell you everything you need to know about nerite snails, including the different varieties, their diet, and an ideal tank setup.

Nerite Snails Facts & Overview

Zebra Nerite

Care Level:Easy
Color Form: Species dependent
Lifespan: 1-2 years
Size: Up to 1 inch
Diet: Herbivore
Family: Neritidae
Minimum Tank Size: 5 gallons
Tank Set-Up: Freshwater: rocks and driftwood
Compatibility: Peaceful community

These snails are from the Neritidae family, which contains over 200 species. Most of these species are from brackish, seashore waters, but a few live in rivers and streams. This means that some can be used in freshwater tanks and others in saltwater setups.

Those used in freshwater tanks originated from brackish waters in Eastern Africa, so they would normally live in a mixture of salty seawater and fresh river water. Saltwater species tend to be from the Pacific or Caribbean coast.

Many of these snails have adapted to live in freshwater so make perfect tankmates for your freshwater aquarium; they should live for 1-2 years and grow up to an inch.

The main reason that people add these snails to their tank is because they’re one of the best algae eaters around. This helps to keep tanks clean, as long as they aren’t overstocked. Snails aren’t very active, but they’re peaceful creatures and shouldn’t cause any problems for the rest of your fish.

They can become easy prey though, so they’re not suitable for a tank full of large, aggressive fish that might want a snack.

Snails are sold in lots of pet stores, and as one of the most popular species, nerites will be easy to find.

They’re affordable too, with one snail costing around $4, but you can usually get them even cheaper if you buy a few at a time. Some species might cost a little more because they’re harder to breed in captivity (such as horned nerites).


Snails aren’t very active, but they’re peaceful creatures and shouldn’t cause any problems for the rest of your fish.

They’ll slowly move around consuming the algae in your tank. They won’t bother any of your fish.

You might sometimes notice your snail appears to have fallen over, their muscle foot is very flexible and they can usually flip themselves back over. You might want to give them a helping hand if they can’t!

Snails also need sleep, just like we do, but their sleep happens in 2-3 day cycles rather than the 24 hour cycle we follow. So, how long does a snail sleep for?

They are thought to have around seven bursts of sleep over a 13-15 hour period and they then are able to have around 30 hours of activity.


Nerita versicolor
Nerita versicolor by James St. John

A snail’s anatomy includes a hard, coiled shell on top of a muscular “foot” which moves side to side to push the snail forwards. They also have four sensitive tentacles.

Nerite snails will grow up to 1 inch if kept healthy. Different species have different colors and markings, but they share the same basic shape and structure.

Zebra nerite snails have stripes across their shells that point towards the center of the coil. The stripes are usually black and yellow in color, but the shade can vary.

Tiger nerite snails are similar to the zebras, except they’re a much more intense orange. The stripes are a lot more jagged too which gives each snail a slightly different look.

Olive nerite snails are commonly kept in aquariums. Their name gives away their color, but most of them don’t have a pattern on their shell. The black line of the coil stands out against the olive color and produces a simple but attractive look.

Horned nerite snails are a little different to the last three. They have thick black and yellow stripes, but along one stripe is a series of dark “horns”.

Habitat and Tank Conditions

Checkered Nerite Snail
Checkered Nerite Snail in Natural Habitat

Marine Habitat

They’re mostly found in coastal habitats such as mangroves and estuaries which have plenty of rocks and other surfaces which algae grow on; if these can be replicated in your tank then they’ll thrive.

Saltwater setups will need hiding spots, these can be made using live rock. Live rocks let your snails take advantage of the algae that grows on its surfaces.

A snail has four tentacles which are very sensitive. A fine-grained, sandy substrate reduces the risk of scratching. Calcium substrate is best because it means that the snails always have a good supply of calcium, which is needed for a strong shell.

The water parameters are the same for both saltwater and freshwater snails, they prefer a high pH of 8.1-8.4 and a temperature of 72-78°F. Saltwater tanks should be kept to a salinity of 1.020-1.028sg.

Freshwater Habitat

A small amount of true freshwater species live in habitats such as forest and mountain streams. As we mentioned before, some marine and brackish snails have also adapted to live in freshwater. Fresh and saltwater tanks have very similar setups.

Rocks and driftwood are ideal for freshwater tanks. Make sure to provide plenty of caves to act as hiding spots, even though most of their time will be spent out and about.

Similarly to saltwater setups, your freshwater tank should also have a fine-grained sanded substrate.

Plants aren’t crucial but they’re an easy way to make a tank look natural and colorful. The snails won’t eat them either, so you can use slower growing species (such as java fern).

The water level of coastal habitats changes with the tide, so the snails aren’t fully submerged all the time in the wild. At night, nerites have been known to climb above the surface of the water. Lowering your water level by an inch or two gives them some room to get out of the water briefly.

On the subject of climbing, snails are very good at it. It’s worth investing in a tight-fitting lid for your tank if you don’t have one already.

Before adding snails, you need to make sure that the water parameters are suitable. They prefer a high pH of 8.1-8.4 and a temperature of 72-78°F.

The water needs to be free from ammonia and nitrites, nitrates should be less than 20mg/L.
You shouldn’t need any special equipment to maintain these conditions, you just need a suitable filter and heater.

It’s best to start with just a few snails and regularly checking for any effects on the rest of the tank. One or two snails would be suitable when setting up a 10 gallon tank.

The amount of snails you can have in your aquarium completely depends on how many fish you’re going to keep them with. As a rough indication you can include around 1 snail per 5 gallons.
They can be kept in any aquariums larger than 5 gallons.

Tank Mates

The main criteria for tank mates are that they must be small and peaceful, beyond that you can keep these snails with most fish.

Generally, this means steering away from cichlid tanks and more towards tetras, guppies and barbs.

They fit in well with peaceful communities, but this doesn’t just mean fish. You can keep them with shrimp (such as the ghost shrimp) and even other nerite species.

Keeping them with a mixture of fish and shrimp is particularly rewarding because you get to see so many different behaviors and every area of the tank has a point of interest.

Keeping Nerite Snails Together

Different nerites can be kept together without any problems, even the more intimidating horned species is peaceful. 1 or 2 snails in a 10 gallon tank will avoid overstocking.

You can add 1 snail per 5 gallons of water. This isn’t a strict ratio, but if you add too many in a small space they won’t have enough algae to eat.


Zebra Nerite Snail in a Tank
Zebra Nerite Snail in a Tank by Evan Baldonado

Snails need to compensate for being slow by scavenging vegetation with their sensory tentacles and radula – a structure used to scrape food.

They primarily feed on algae that forms on the surfaces in your tank. If you stock your tank correctly, they should be able to live off the algae.

If alga isn’t forming fast enough then you should add in other foods.

Algae wafers make good substitutes, especially since they sit on the bottom of the tank until a snail comes across them.

Another option is to add green vegetables from your kitchen to the tank. Spinach and lettuce make cheap alternatives to store-bought foods and keep a snail’s diet interesting. Homemade recipes work too.

Remember that wafers and vegetables are only needed if there’s not enough algae in your tank. If you’re having to scrape algae off the glass every now and then, the snails should be fine without being fed.

You need to be careful how much you feed your snails, overfeeding and underfeeding each have different effects on an aquatic snail’s health (more on this later). Nerites aren’t fussy when it comes to food. They’re very easy to cater for and they won’t eat your plants which is an added bonus.


Just like all living things, snails can experience a variety of health problems. Some are easy to avoid through proper care, others are harder to control.

A snail’s shell is a common cause for concern. Sometimes the shell’s growth can become stunted. This shouldn’t be a problem if they’re in a healthy environment since the two main causes for stunted growth are a low temperature and not eating enough.

Over-eating can also be a problem for a snail’s shell. This will usually discolor it because the extra energy from the food causes the shell to grow at a faster rate.

In the wild, nerite snails have dark shells because there isn’t much food. The shell stays dark as it’s growing so slowly.

Snails need calcium to keep their shells strong, so a lack of calcium can cause the shell to weaken and crack. If you notice this then try adding calcium supplements, such as calcium sulfate, or use a calcium substrate.

You also need to look out for white spots on shells, as these are usually parasites that have latched on. It’s harder to tell if your snails are being affected by an internal parasite, but both forms can be fatal depending on the species of parasite.

Older snails are more likely to get a disease called “oedema”. The snail’s body will swell and fill up with fluid, making it harder for the snail to move.

Finally, you need to remember that copper is toxic to most invertebrates so keep the water in your tank free from it. Watch out for medications that contain copper, even a slight trace can be fatal.


Emerald Nerite Snail
Emerald Nerite Snail by James St. John

One reason why these snails are so popular for freshwater aquariums is because fish stores often tell people they won’t breed in freshwater tanks. This is not necessarily true.

Nerite Snails will breed and lay eggs, but they don’t hatch as the larvae need brackish water to survive. When this happens you can try to remove the snail eggs by scraping them off or, if you want to continue the breeding process, remove them to appropriate water conditions.

You can either let your snails reproduce in freshwater and move the eggs, or just start the process with snails that are already acclimatized to living in saltwater.

Most snails reproduce asexually, but nerite snails are an exception. The female will produce eggs for the male to fertilize, like fish. The eggs will then be spread throughout the tank and develop into larvae if provided brackish water conditions.

Once hatched, the young are very small, to the point where they might get sucked into the filter inlet. A sponge filter would make this virtually impossible.

If breeding snails is your aim, moving them to a brackish water setup will give you the best chance of success (this is their natural habitat). If you are moving the snails from a freshwater setup you should gradually acclimate them first; there are many ways to do this.

One way is to remove the snails with some of their old tank water, then slowly add water from the new environment over the next couple of hours until the water level has tripled.

An ideal breeding tank will contain as many snails as possible with a fairly even ratio of males to females.

The size of the group depends on the size of the tank you have, but a small group of five should be fine. They will start to breed once they’re comfortable in the tank.

Are Nerite Snails Suitable for your Aquarium?

Nerite snails can be kept by people of all fishkeeping abilities because they’re so easy to care for.

The main things to consider before buying some are whether your tank is a peaceful community aquarium, and whether the water parameters are in a suitable range.

They can be kept with other freshwater fish but will become prey if these fish are big and aggressive.

If you can, it’s worth trying nerites at some point. They’ll keep algae levels down while providing a completely different look compared to any fish swimming around them.

All this with such little effort. It’s hard to find a reason not to add them to your tank.

Have you kept nerite snails? Let us know your experience in the comments below…

About Robert 454 Articles
Robert Woods is the creator of FishKeeping World, a third-generation fish keeper, and a graduate in animal welfare and behavior. He is also a proud member of the Association of Zoos and Aquariums, the Marine Aquarium Societies of North America, and the Nature Conservancy.


  1. Mike smith says:

    I originally bought only three or four snails to keep my 55 gallon fresh water aquarium clean. My one concern is the snails seem to reproduce rather rapidly. I’m wondering if this is normal. Is this a controllable thing. Will the snail population get out of hand? Anyone have some advice?

    • Fishkeeping World says:

      You can get some bottom dwellers which will eat the eggs as they’re laid such as cory cats. Robert

    • Matt says:

      Loaches will eat snails if they become too much of a problem

    • Jason says:

      You will not control it. Best you can do is not overfeed your community fish or other animals, so algae and detritus doesn’t accumulate. These are the snail’s food sources and less food will result in less reproduction. However, you will have to learn to love them as family now.

    • Luke says:

      Control the amount of food you feed your fish. Excess food will support a larger population.

  2. RJ says:

    Hi. I’m pretty sure my horned nerites have parasites. How can I cure them?

    • Fishkeeping World says:

      Hello, what symptoms are you seeing? Thanks, Robert

  3. Leah says:

    I’ve had a tiger nerite snail for a good couple of months now. However, its foot is a little detached from the inside of the shell and it’s not moving. I can’t tell if it’s dead (because it doesn’t smell) or if it’s just sleeping. Any advice?

    • Fishkeeping World says:

      Hi Leah, how long has he been like that? If he hasn’t moved in over 48 hours I would say it’s most likely dead. Snails tend to have short and frequent sleep cycles. Thanks, Robert

  4. Jenny Mitchell says:

    We have baby snails in a freshwater tank that came from ONE Zebra snail that has been in our tank for 2-3 months. How is that possible???

    • Fishkeeping World says:

      Hi Jenny, is it possible the baby snails hitchhiked their way in on a plant? Thanks, Robert

  5. Susanna Gauthier says:

    Do snails need to be quarantined before you put them in your aquarium, like fish? Also, I have gravel in my tank. Will they be ok on that?

    • Fishkeeping World says:

      Hi Susanna, yes I would quarantine all animals and plants before adding them to your established setup. And they will be fine as long as it’s a fine grain gravel. Thanks, Robert

  6. Christina says:

    So we have a small fish tank for my son that is home to 2 blue mystery snails, 1 golden mystery snail, 1 nerite snail and around 7 fish. And I am pretty sure our nerite snail mated with the blue mystery snails and now we have a few babies. While snail watching a few weeks ago I noticed a new addition to the tank, a barely visible baby snail with a dark shell similar to the nerite. There have been other babies but all have been blue or clear looking like the mystery snails. Now the only ones I have seen laying eggs are the Blues. We have had our tank for a few months and not added anything recently, so there is no way the baby snail could have hitchhiked its way in. The baby is now about the size of a pinky nail and until recently had been the only one with a dark shell but yesterday we noticed a new tiny barely visible dark shelled baby snail riding one of the adults.

    • Laura says:

      How small of a fish tank? Because that sounds like it could be overstocked. (Aquatic critters tend to need more water than most people expect, to safely dilute their waste to non-toxic levels between water changes).

    • Laura says:

      Also, nerites and mystery snails can’t intervreed. Could it be a pond or ramshorn snail? They’re very common pest snails that hitchhike in on plants and other snails. They also breed asexually, so if you have one in there it can make many more.

  7. Francesca says:

    I bought tank vegetation online and put it in a spare tank for quarantine. It turned out to be full of eggs because now I have a large amount of snails of various sizes and shapes. I enjoy watching them but don’t know what types they are or how to clean a snail only tank without killing invisible babies. Suggestions are appreciated, Thanks!

    • Elizabeth says:

      Most of the time if it came off a plant from online or a pet store and they don’t mention snail free they are most likely ramshorn snails.btw they breed like crazy and I know a lot of people who call them pests because they eat plants and breed like crazy.

      • David Fraser says:

        Anyone who has too many snails here’s an easy way to control them; capture them by hand or in a net, crush them between thumb and forefinger or two spoons and then feed them to your fish. Fish will have a feeding frenzy for this fresh protein and calcium. I have a 30 gallon tank of Guppies and they go absolutely bonkers for their treats.

  8. Janice says:

    I have a newly set up 5.5 gal. planted Betta tank with eco complete substrate. Starting to get brown algae or diatoms. Will a Nerite eat this? Is the substrate I have too sharp for it? Or instead of a snail would an Otocinclus be a good option & again, would my substrate be too rough/sharp for it?

    • Fishkeeping World says:

      Hi Janice, I’d say it’s too rough for them. You could place a half inch layer of sand on the top. Thanks, Robert

    • Elizabeth says:

      I suggest getting a sand so they can’t cut themselves also their is a outer layer and soft layer of algae normally most snails eat the soft layer because the hard layer is to “hard”also I have a Otocinclus what happens is Otocinclus eat off your decorations rocks and services but a snail eats both. You can get both they wouldn’t mind each other you can get a Otocinclus at pet smart for 2.49 and a snail at pet smart for 2.99 so very cheap btw these live stock need filters\ bubbler .

  9. McKenzie says:

    I have a 25 gallon tank with 2 goldfish, and am interested in adding 2 or 3 nerite snails. Would they be safe from the goldfish?

    • Fishkeeping World says:

      Hi McKenzie, with them being slightly larger than the normal snail they will probably be OK, it’s not guaranteed though. Thanks, Robert

  10. Jennifer says:

    I’ve been trying to find out can Tiger nerite snails see light? Dark?

    • Fishkeeping World says:

      Hi Jennifer, it is thought that snails can tell the difference between light and dark, but we’re not sure as to the full extent that they can see. Let me know if you find out anymore! Thanks, Robert

    • DakotAZ says:

      Both Nerite and Mystery Snails supposedly have very poor eyesight but CAN distinguish light from dark. Often my Mystery snails will suddenly drop to the bottom of the tank when i turn on the tank light in a dark room. The light evidently startles them. Also watch how an aquarium filled with snails comes to life when the lights go out. Amazing!

  11. Dominika says:

    Hello. My two nerite snails have been laying a lot of eggs and I was wondering if moving the eggs to brackish water would be enough for them to grow into snails. My plan was to put something like a terracotta pot into the aquarium, let the snails lay eggs on the pot, and move the pot to brackish water as soon as I notice new eggs. Do you think there’s a chance of that plan succeeding?

  12. Heika says:

    Wondering how you would move Nerite snail eggs?

  13. Greg C. says:

    I have a brackish water tank but my snails seem to be dying. All test show the levels to be where they should be. There is algae. I’ve smelled the snails and there is no strong odor to show them as dying but there has been no activity for 4 days. I have 5 zebra nerites in 125 gal setup. How long will they sleep? Am I correct to be concerned or will they wake up and get to work?

  14. Spencer says:

    I have a single nerite snail in an aquarium with my ghost shrimp. Somehow, it laid eggs and the eggs hatched. How is this possible? Will the babies die because it is a freshwater aquarium?

  15. B Mathews says:

    So I had 2 weeks ago bought a Nerite snail as the other one had died. I’d also bought a couple of shrimp and a male guppy. I already have a yellow Inca snail in the tank. Well lo and behold, today I noticed I have an explosion of tiny snails in the tank. I stopped counting after 20. I don’t know what they are and where they came from. What do I do?

    Thanks for any advice.

    I have a 10 gallon tank with 4 male guppies two female platies, one algae eater two shrimp and two snails.

    And I’m below an amateur; I’ve finally after almost a year of trying got an aquarium with fish that want to live in my ‘care’, and then this. ????. HELP.

  16. Jen Bingham says:

    Hi, I have a 3gal half moon Betta tank that I just set up. After it has a chance to get a little algae growing I would like to get a nerite snail. My betta is not particularly large, about 1.5inches probably. I was going to get 2 merited, but is sounds like I probably should only get 1? Also, I have regular plain old brightly colored aquarium gravel. I have ordered some much smoother little tumbled crystals (rose quartz and aquamarine) will those be ok for a nerite?

  17. Tre says:

    Hi hoping you can help. Please email if you need more detail. I’ve submitted video and pictures on several shrimp, snail and aquarium forums. I thought I had harmless rhadbacella worms (Sorry spelling) no triangle heads…in my shrimp tank. Cherry shrimp in a 10 gallon. Had not fed in days.
    I placed a Nerite in after quarantining him and acclimating. They swarmed him and I fear they may be in his shell. How can I help him if it is planaria or someone else said snail leeches….. treating as if planaria with fenbendazole for today and hoping the Japanese treatment arrives soon. Please help me save this dang snail. I know he won’t go back in that tank for a long time but I can’t risk putting him in my son’s tank and infecting it as well.

  18. Regan says:

    One of my Nerites has something hard-looking sticking off its side, it just came up. It seems like it might be a damaged operculum – I’m not sure what to do? Anything? Do I just leave it alone and let the snail sort it out?

  19. ShaLynn says:

    Hi I have 2 nerite snails in a 36 gal. I have all the escape routes blocked. What I am noticing is one nerite is staying under the hood out of the water I have moved him back into the aquarium and he is now back under the hood. It is notable that there is usually a bit of water that somehow accumulates there. Is this a problem and I need to check the environment or is he fine and will go back inside by himself? By the way the tank has plenty of algae the other one seems to like to eat it; I have only had them less than a month.

  20. david skilton says:

    Hi can anyone answer this question i have nitrate snails in a 4 foot tank and they keep it super clean free from algae my question is why dont they eat the algae on the light ??

  21. Jessie F says:

    I am trying to keep marimo in a quart jar(my apartment isn’t large enough for a proper tank, unfortunately), but as expected now the sides are accumulating algae. Would a small nerite be ok in a jar with several marimo & regularly changed spring water?

  22. Jessica Fortin says:

    I have a small tank with sea glass pebbles. Is that too rough for a red onion nerite?

  23. Ronny Rydström says:

    What is the minimum amount of salt in the water to breed nerites?

  24. Pauline Laker says:

    My nerite appears to have a dark brown hairy fungus growing out of his shell.
    Do you know what it is?

  25. Grace Kallhoff says:

    I have 2 horned Nerite snails, one is brown and the other is yellow and black striped. Both are about the size of a peanut. The striped one has been attached to the back of the brown one since they joined the tank (about 3-4 months). Should I pull them apart? Is the striped in eating the shell of the other? Is it okay for them to continue in this manner. They have never been apart.

  26. jacob tucker says:

    Is a blue colord sand bottom good or bad for snails because I am looking to get 3 snails for my 25 gallon tank and it’s swarming with brown algae so would the snails be ok in there ??

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